HIRADO STRAITS
We had heard the stories about the extreme currents, tidal rips and flotillas of ships using the strait so we approached with trepidation. Favourable tide was due the following morning so we anchored out of the way of the expected busy traffic. A few fishing boats roared by along a with a couple of coastal freighters....all taking advantage of the tidal flow.
A fishing boat approached us and with hand signals indicated that we were anchored over their crab pot area. They led us to another spot and as we reanchored they presented us with two live optopus and 5 large crabs. After they left we released the octopus, but the crab we njoyed for our dinner.
The next morning we went through the strait with no other vessels for company...it was a wee bit of a let down, but perhaps the world economical situation has affected the number of ships in the area.
Our last night before Fukuoka was spent in a bay at anchor. In the middle of the night we were visited by the Coast Guard Police who were very excited with the change in their routine we offered. We filled in the forms by torchlight they passed to us via a fishing net, answered their questions and then they disappeared into the dust and we went back to bed.
Saturday, August 8, 2009
Tuesday, August 4, 2009
Cruising Japan...Kyushu
Mie Nagasaki
32.49n....129.46e
This is a large commercial port and we were able to easily spot where the fishing boats went, but what about us. After motoring around, trying to (once again unsuccessfully) contact someone on channel 16 a friendly fisherman pointed us towards a brand new pen area. Nice wharf steps, inbuilt fenders, typhoon fencing and all for no cost.
Once secure we did the usual walkaround. past the gambling palaces, found a supermarket, had an icecream and returned to Charioteer for a good nights sleep.
Next morning we were joined in the pen by a fishing boat and recieved a gift of a just caught fish.
After breakfast we cycled off for some exploring. In the window of a store we saw the unbiquous polystyrene fenders...hooray a chandlery. Inside we were met by the smiling fish giving fisherman, who we learnt was the owner of several boats and the chandlery. Shinichi greeted us as long lost friends and in no time we had access to their computer, were drinking tea and Brian was negotiating the purchase of engine oil. The engine oil was delivered to Charioteer along with a Japanese teaset and a huge wall hanging flag. After thsi amazing time we continued exploring enjoying the contact with the locals. The previous night we had watched a dragon boat team practising and to our delight we were able to watch the competition.
We spent our last evening dining with Shinichi and his son Koji at a very nice Tempura restaurant. After dinner we returned to their house. Koji showed us his english lesson books and we had an enjoyable hour talking English with him.
Time was pressing and we still had a way to go before Fukuoka so after a couple of enjoyable days here we moved on.
32.49n....129.46e
This is a large commercial port and we were able to easily spot where the fishing boats went, but what about us. After motoring around, trying to (once again unsuccessfully) contact someone on channel 16 a friendly fisherman pointed us towards a brand new pen area. Nice wharf steps, inbuilt fenders, typhoon fencing and all for no cost.
Once secure we did the usual walkaround. past the gambling palaces, found a supermarket, had an icecream and returned to Charioteer for a good nights sleep.
Next morning we were joined in the pen by a fishing boat and recieved a gift of a just caught fish.
After breakfast we cycled off for some exploring. In the window of a store we saw the unbiquous polystyrene fenders...hooray a chandlery. Inside we were met by the smiling fish giving fisherman, who we learnt was the owner of several boats and the chandlery. Shinichi greeted us as long lost friends and in no time we had access to their computer, were drinking tea and Brian was negotiating the purchase of engine oil. The engine oil was delivered to Charioteer along with a Japanese teaset and a huge wall hanging flag. After thsi amazing time we continued exploring enjoying the contact with the locals. The previous night we had watched a dragon boat team practising and to our delight we were able to watch the competition.
We spent our last evening dining with Shinichi and his son Koji at a very nice Tempura restaurant. After dinner we returned to their house. Koji showed us his english lesson books and we had an enjoyable hour talking English with him.
Time was pressing and we still had a way to go before Fukuoka so after a couple of enjoyable days here we moved on.
Cruising Japan Kyushu
Sendai 31.50 north 130.12 east
The Sendai river has been divided in two by the ever popular high concrete wall. This way the port does not silt up and the fishing fleet have a safe harbour. Once again we tied up to an uninviting disused wharf, putting out plenty of fenders. The tidal range was about 1.5 metres so at low tide our view was of the busy crabs on the walls andit was impossible to see land from the deck. We have a ladder which helps exiting at these wharfs, but I find it a bit daunting.
After we were secure we did our usual stroll around the area..."hey you guys, where are you from, I'm Malaysian" came a voice. We turned around and met Chai and enjoyed another one of those unexpected experiences. Chai is a busy man who flys arounds visiting the various branches of his business.He was as happy to spend the evening talking English as we were. He drove us into town, took us to a beautiful restaurant, where we dined in style, gave us access to his office computers for weather reports. And the next morning he was gone to another part of japan.
A macgregor 26ft yacht arrived as we were having morning coffee and Brian went to help with the ropes and invited the owner over for coffe.
Hiromi arrived, wearing a big smile, clutching a big book and with his brain desperately trying to dredge up any english he had learnt at school 60 years ago. The book was a very upmarket atlas on japan and after proudly showing us where he had sailed from and where he was going, Hiromi presented us with this marvelous book. Later in the day Hiromi caught the bus to Kagoshima and his anxiously awaiting family.
We off loaded our cycles and explored for as long as the heat would allow, before returning to Charioteer.
As we sat enjoying a cool drink and some shade Jiyoji (aka George) arrived for a look see.....and this became another of those very special experiences. Jiyoji is a film director and during our time in Sendai we were priviledged to see a sample of work from this talented person. Jiyoji and his daughter Kyia really spoilt us..taking us on a visit to an extra ordinary temple at the top of a hill, giving us access to his computer for weather reports, taking us to the supermarket, arriving bearing the most delicious fritters....crumbed camerbert fried.....yummy. Jiyoji celebrated his birthday while we were here so I cooked a chocolate and walnut cake which we served complete with candles. Another enjoyable evening in very enjoyable company.
In between Hiromi coming and going to Kagoshima and always returning with another special delicay for us to sample, Jiyoji and Kyia spoiling us we met a merchant seaman who had fond memories of his times spent in New Zealnd ports and was keen to return the kindness he had recieved. We were inundated with fresh homegrown vegetables and fruit plus he arranged for us to buy diesel at fishermens prices !!!!!
Due to the weather we stayed in Sendai longer than we intended. But the company was so good we were not complaining. What we didn't enjoy was the sand blown onto Charioteer during the strong winds....the cockpit began to resemble a sandpit!!!!!!!! and we were happy at lowtide for the opportunity to use our washdown hose to clear the stuff away.
Fukuoka was calling and it was with regret that we cast off our lines and continued our journey
Saturday, August 1, 2009
Cruising Japan...Kyushu
Kusi Wan Bo
Latitude 31.16 N Longitude 130.13 E
We arrived late in the afternoon and tied up to the empty wharf. After dinner we had a small walk to stretch our legs and then we went to bed. In the early hours of the morning we were awoken by a gentle knocking on the hull...."please would we move, the fishing fleet need the wharf space. We had a quick wash, put on our clothes and motored into the middle of the harbour looking for space. Eventually we dropped anchor and went back to bed.
Looking around the next morning we thought that perhaps we had finally arrived in the 'real' Japan. WE could see a temple a all the houses looked 'Japanese". We launched the dinghy and once ashore we meandered through the small town. We enquired about internet at the post office and after a staff group discussion we were directed 'over the hill...big town' (and far away). We returned to Charioteer with those important necessities - mild, bread eggs, potatoes..and for Brian...icecream.
Next morning we returned to land intending to explore the other side of the town. A large building flying the Japanese flag was found to be the library and information centre. the reception area was manned by an enthusiastic english speaking local who had soon organised an internet connection and then gave us tourist brochures in English. Hiroyuki then took us a short waliking tour of his area. After a refreshment break of green tea and sticky buns in his office Hiroyuki oversaw the closing of the library for the dayand then we piled into his car for a trip to the supermarket.
In the cool of the morning, armed with our brochures we discovered more of the hidden treasures of the area. That afternoon as we sat in shade on Charioteer we heard someone calling us. Imagine our surprise to see a middleaged man in the water asking if we wanted to go to the 'supa'...we were so surprised we just said a polite 'no thankyou' and watched him dog paddle away to land.
Our last night here was spent with Hiroyuki eating homemade pizza. We knew he was enjoying it when even before he had finished his first slice he was asking for a 'doggie' bag to take home for his mother........
Latitude 31.16 N Longitude 130.13 E
We arrived late in the afternoon and tied up to the empty wharf. After dinner we had a small walk to stretch our legs and then we went to bed. In the early hours of the morning we were awoken by a gentle knocking on the hull...."please would we move, the fishing fleet need the wharf space. We had a quick wash, put on our clothes and motored into the middle of the harbour looking for space. Eventually we dropped anchor and went back to bed.
Looking around the next morning we thought that perhaps we had finally arrived in the 'real' Japan. WE could see a temple a all the houses looked 'Japanese". We launched the dinghy and once ashore we meandered through the small town. We enquired about internet at the post office and after a staff group discussion we were directed 'over the hill...big town' (and far away). We returned to Charioteer with those important necessities - mild, bread eggs, potatoes..and for Brian...icecream.
Next morning we returned to land intending to explore the other side of the town. A large building flying the Japanese flag was found to be the library and information centre. the reception area was manned by an enthusiastic english speaking local who had soon organised an internet connection and then gave us tourist brochures in English. Hiroyuki then took us a short waliking tour of his area. After a refreshment break of green tea and sticky buns in his office Hiroyuki oversaw the closing of the library for the dayand then we piled into his car for a trip to the supermarket.
In the cool of the morning, armed with our brochures we discovered more of the hidden treasures of the area. That afternoon as we sat in shade on Charioteer we heard someone calling us. Imagine our surprise to see a middleaged man in the water asking if we wanted to go to the 'supa'...we were so surprised we just said a polite 'no thankyou' and watched him dog paddle away to land.
Our last night here was spent with Hiroyuki eating homemade pizza. We knew he was enjoying it when even before he had finished his first slice he was asking for a 'doggie' bag to take home for his mother........
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
Cruising in Japan
My first introduction to Japan was about 40 years ago when I read a story about Miss 1000 Cherry Blossoms. Since then there have been many books and many films, the last one being the last samurai.
The southern Japanese Island were severly damaged during the intense fighting in WW2 and after the war it was the Americans who did the rebuilding so intially all the buildings looked familiar. But as we have slowly moved up the chain of islands the Japan of my imagination has slowly begun to appear.
Our routine is the same at each port. We tie up and make sure we are safe and secure. Then its on to land and off for a quick look around. ( I am looking for that elusive gheisha, Brian is looking for a shop that sells icecream !!!!!!)
The people we have met have been generous and friendly. Generous with their time, given freely, to show us the special places where they live, generous with their gifts from the vegetable garden and orchard. And generous with their acceptance of our fractured Japanese.
The things that have amazed us so far;
the amount of concrete that is used to build safe harbours for a few fishing boats, the huge wharfs for an island that has a population of 120 people....
the number of discarded bycycles..all they ned is a bit of TLC.....
the drink vending machines that can be found everywhere.......
Every day we wake up and wonder what will be the days highlight.....here is some of them..
a gift of three new blades and a nose cone for our damaged wind generator...which is now know as the Mighty Quinn...(thanks Mike)
Fishermen giving us `just caught` fish
Our first Onsen...Nude thermal bathing....(thank goodness the sexes bath in separate areas)
Islands with a population of 120, 11 of whom are of school age, and the school has a staff of 12......
the polystyrene fenders washed up on the shoreline..(they look like legless sheep)
seeing more turtles here than in the South Pacific
Supermarket shopping...by picture and by feel. ( I cant read the labels!!!!!)
We are now in Fukuoka. Andrew, Avril and the girls have arrived for a two week vacation and one of Andrews jobs while here is to get my computer organised so we can have internet connection onboard. We are hoping that this will enable us to keep our blog more up todate.
We will be leaving for South Korea early August......
so keep watching this space
The southern Japanese Island were severly damaged during the intense fighting in WW2 and after the war it was the Americans who did the rebuilding so intially all the buildings looked familiar. But as we have slowly moved up the chain of islands the Japan of my imagination has slowly begun to appear.
Our routine is the same at each port. We tie up and make sure we are safe and secure. Then its on to land and off for a quick look around. ( I am looking for that elusive gheisha, Brian is looking for a shop that sells icecream !!!!!!)
The people we have met have been generous and friendly. Generous with their time, given freely, to show us the special places where they live, generous with their gifts from the vegetable garden and orchard. And generous with their acceptance of our fractured Japanese.
The things that have amazed us so far;
the amount of concrete that is used to build safe harbours for a few fishing boats, the huge wharfs for an island that has a population of 120 people....
the number of discarded bycycles..all they ned is a bit of TLC.....
the drink vending machines that can be found everywhere.......
Every day we wake up and wonder what will be the days highlight.....here is some of them..
a gift of three new blades and a nose cone for our damaged wind generator...which is now know as the Mighty Quinn...(thanks Mike)
Fishermen giving us `just caught` fish
Our first Onsen...Nude thermal bathing....(thank goodness the sexes bath in separate areas)
Islands with a population of 120, 11 of whom are of school age, and the school has a staff of 12......
the polystyrene fenders washed up on the shoreline..(they look like legless sheep)
seeing more turtles here than in the South Pacific
Supermarket shopping...by picture and by feel. ( I cant read the labels!!!!!)
We are now in Fukuoka. Andrew, Avril and the girls have arrived for a two week vacation and one of Andrews jobs while here is to get my computer organised so we can have internet connection onboard. We are hoping that this will enable us to keep our blog more up todate.
We will be leaving for South Korea early August......
so keep watching this space
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