ANOTHER WEEKEND OF TRUNDLING OUR HOUSE AROUND A WET RACE TRACK. IT IS QUITE INTERESTING VIEWING OTHER YACHTS FROM THE BACK....AND FROM THE FRONT AS THEY RETURN TOWARDS THE FINISH WITH THEIR SPINNAKERS FLYING.
WE NOW HAVE FORMULATED A RACE PLAN.......AS THE FIRST BOAT PASSES US ON THEIR HOMEWARD COURSE WE TURN AROUND AND TURN ON THE MOTOR. SO WE PASS THE START LINE AND THE FINISH LINE BUT WE NEVER GET TO SEE THE TURNING BUOY........
WHILE THE FAST YACHTS HAVE THEIR CREW HANGING ONVER THE SIDE WE ARE SIPPING COFFEE.....
HERE IN MOKPO WE WERE MEANT TO DO AN OFF SHORE RACE TO JEJU BUT UNFORTUNATELY THE SIDE EFFECTS OF THE CURRENT TYPHOON MEANT THIS WAS CANCELLED ...SO INSTEAD WE DID AN INSHORE AWAY FROM LAND (I KNOW, I KNOW) RACE.
THIS WAS THE FIRST TIME MOKPO MARINA HAD HELD THIS EVENT SO THERE WERE A FEW TEETHING TROUBLES BUT SOME THINGS THEY DID EXTREMELY WELL. EACH DAY WE RECIEVED LUNCH BOXES AND THE OPENING AND CLOSING CEREMONY DINNERS WERE FANTASTIC.
WE HAVE HAD A LOVELY TIME MEETING NEW PEOPLE...RUSSIANS, SINGAPORE, INDONESIA,CHINESE,CANADIANS,ENGLISH...THIS WAS TRULY AN INTERNATIONAL EVENT
FOR THE NEXT WEEK OR TWO WE SHALL DO A BIT MORE EXPLORING AND THEN IT IS BACK TO MOKPO TO LEAVE CHARIOTEER AND WE WILL BE HOMEWARD BOUND FOR TWO MONTHS OF HUGS AND CUDDLES ...CAN'T WAIT.
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
Thursday, October 14, 2010
TONG YEONG KOREA
THE 4TH YISUNSIN CUP INTERNATIONAL YACHT RACE
We arrived here yesterday after four days of no wind and often a contrary current. Yesterday I had to don snorkel and flippers and attack rope that had decided the best place to be was tightly wrapped around our shaft and propellor.....
Here in the Chung Mu Resort marina an extra floating finger has been set up between the poles, there are many yachts here for the race...Korean, Russian and New Zealand (thats us)
We are not sure if we will be competitive..surely after four years of cruising we have learnt something about sailing. Okay lets compare Charioteer with some of the other yacht here......
On average it seems as if these yachts weigh about seven ton......
On Charioteer
.....we have seven ton of lead in our keel ......
.....we carry water for showers, laundry, cooking and drinking.....
.....we carry four gas bottles for cooking and we have just filled them up...
.....we carry food for about three months.......
.....we carry winter clothes, summer clothes, southern ocean wet weather gear..
.....we carry a six man lift raft, flares, first aid, life jackets and other safety
equipment
.....we carry souveniers and gifts from four years sailing
.....we carry spares, welding sets,sewing machines,vacumn cleaner,
washing machine,microwave, cruising guides, books,charts....
Actually you name it and we probably carry it.
Charioteers launch weight was (we believe) 25 ton...now it probably a lot more than that.
So the question is .....
will we be competitive against these light weight yachts, crewed by sailors and not cruisers?.
We think not, but we will certainly do our best.
For our crew we have two Canadians, two Koreans and of course us (two Kiwis)....so we certainly are an International yacht...and we will have fun and get to meet many sailors.....
We arrived here yesterday after four days of no wind and often a contrary current. Yesterday I had to don snorkel and flippers and attack rope that had decided the best place to be was tightly wrapped around our shaft and propellor.....
Here in the Chung Mu Resort marina an extra floating finger has been set up between the poles, there are many yachts here for the race...Korean, Russian and New Zealand (thats us)
We are not sure if we will be competitive..surely after four years of cruising we have learnt something about sailing. Okay lets compare Charioteer with some of the other yacht here......
On average it seems as if these yachts weigh about seven ton......
On Charioteer
.....we have seven ton of lead in our keel ......
.....we carry water for showers, laundry, cooking and drinking.....
.....we carry four gas bottles for cooking and we have just filled them up...
.....we carry food for about three months.......
.....we carry winter clothes, summer clothes, southern ocean wet weather gear..
.....we carry a six man lift raft, flares, first aid, life jackets and other safety
equipment
.....we carry souveniers and gifts from four years sailing
.....we carry spares, welding sets,sewing machines,vacumn cleaner,
washing machine,microwave, cruising guides, books,charts....
Actually you name it and we probably carry it.
Charioteers launch weight was (we believe) 25 ton...now it probably a lot more than that.
So the question is .....
will we be competitive against these light weight yachts, crewed by sailors and not cruisers?.
We think not, but we will certainly do our best.
For our crew we have two Canadians, two Koreans and of course us (two Kiwis)....so we certainly are an International yacht...and we will have fun and get to meet many sailors.....
Monday, September 27, 2010
Korean Cruising Adventure September 2010
On Sunday we were invited onto a Korean yacht for a day sail. Almost no wind and good visibility. Five Koreans crowded in the cockpit, Carol and Brian on the fordeck.
Aware of a fast approaching large fishing boat dead ahead, we called to the helmsman to alert him of this danger, but he didn't hear us. With the fishing boat fast approaching Brians yelling became VERY loud.
50 metres away one of the drowsy fishing boat crew members lifted his head up in response to the yelling. At last the fishing boat skipper heard something but too late.
Luckily the impact was down the side taking out the yachts staunchions...with one hell of a loud bang!!!!!!! He must of been travelling at between 10 and 15 knots.
Had the impact been head on the damage and injuries would of been major.
What really annoys us is the Korean Coastguard/Police make such an issue about yachties (local and visiting) doing everything by the book. Yet fishing boats seem to break every law with impunity.
Japan has the same problem with their fishermen being a strong union politically.
MARIA
We had intended staying longer in China, but having assisted MARIA back to her home por meant going 200 miles further norh that n we had intended. MARIA's owner told us we would be reimbursed for fuel used and as Captain Cho wanted to leave on theFriday despite the wind on the nose forcast. So over three days and two nights we motorsailed for 51 hours.
Upon arrival we discovered that Captain Cho is 'famous in Korea' (www.udtseal.or.kr).
To us the Captain was just plain Mr.Cho an old guy who had lost his mast and needed help. Back at MARIA's homeport we were greeted like heros ourselves.
Because we are up in this area we have now been able to visit the DMZ, been whitewater rafting, visited temple sights, theme parks museums and got naked in a public huge hotelspa sauna .
We are now tied to a huge barge. It has been madeover into accommodation etc, almost like a house boat. Here we are able to relax and unwind. The sky is blue, the air is clean, life is good.
On the 29th we start siling southward to Tong young....believing we are entered in a race there...(better luck this time)
STILL IN CHINA
Our time spent in Qingdao has felt a bit like being in 'Wonderland'
WE were unable to travel much further than 30k outside of Qingdao. What we saw was dirty rundown towns with narrow ugly streets, people doing laundry in buckets.
The contrast with Qingdoa is like comparing chalk with cheese....did we perhaps get a glimpse of the real China?????
Qingdao is a city that was constructed especially for the Olympics to be used for the sailing activities. The shops are great...but DO NOT DRINK THE WATER.......
China appears free but everyone must register with the police within 24hrs of arriving anywhere...(foreigner and chinese alike). If staying in an hotel this is done for you and you do not know you are being 'tracked'
We think we always had a minder and we were passed along a chain.
So we have yet to visit China but we have been to Qingdao.
Not sure if we enjoyed ourselves here or not...when one is used to freedom this was an unusual experience.
Visibility was always restricted because of the smog/pollution but we hope you enjoy the photos we shall post later.
WE were unable to travel much further than 30k outside of Qingdao. What we saw was dirty rundown towns with narrow ugly streets, people doing laundry in buckets.
The contrast with Qingdoa is like comparing chalk with cheese....did we perhaps get a glimpse of the real China?????
Qingdao is a city that was constructed especially for the Olympics to be used for the sailing activities. The shops are great...but DO NOT DRINK THE WATER.......
China appears free but everyone must register with the police within 24hrs of arriving anywhere...(foreigner and chinese alike). If staying in an hotel this is done for you and you do not know you are being 'tracked'
We think we always had a minder and we were passed along a chain.
So we have yet to visit China but we have been to Qingdao.
Not sure if we enjoyed ourselves here or not...when one is used to freedom this was an unusual experience.
Visibility was always restricted because of the smog/pollution but we hope you enjoy the photos we shall post later.
CHINA ....NOW AND THEN
Talking with a family who were here during the GREAT LEAP FORWARD and the CULTURAL REVOLUTION has been interesting
The family lived in the shadow of the church. The grandfather and father were preachers and the mother was a doctor. The daughter was eight years old and can remember the flames as the Red Guard burnt their possessions...books, clothes and furniture that had the slightest western tinge, and other unburnable things were broken.
The grandmothers feet were bound inblack cloths and she used spare feet bindings to wrap a bible in and hid it in a dark place. For ten years it was the only bible the congregation had to read.
For this family, advice given to them from survivors of those terrible times is......
do not be proud, let people see you sharing your wealth how ever little you have, and try to be invisible just in case it happens again.
The family lived in the shadow of the church. The grandfather and father were preachers and the mother was a doctor. The daughter was eight years old and can remember the flames as the Red Guard burnt their possessions...books, clothes and furniture that had the slightest western tinge, and other unburnable things were broken.
The grandmothers feet were bound inblack cloths and she used spare feet bindings to wrap a bible in and hid it in a dark place. For ten years it was the only bible the congregation had to read.
For this family, advice given to them from survivors of those terrible times is......
do not be proud, let people see you sharing your wealth how ever little you have, and try to be invisible just in case it happens again.
CHINA and the MARIA
MARIA
The Korean yacht Maria arrived in Qingdao the day after us. Whilst sailing one day MARIA lost her masts and while the Chinese Coastguard was helping her she sustained more damage. Once back at the marina, not one Chines official or sailor offered her Korean Captain any help. The remains of her masts and sails were in the sea still tied to MARIA and the wharf.
Brian helped with the mast and sail recovery. No one from the other crews (Beneteaus) offered a helping hand. Most unusual as sailors usually assist each other.
The Korean yacht Maria arrived in Qingdao the day after us. Whilst sailing one day MARIA lost her masts and while the Chinese Coastguard was helping her she sustained more damage. Once back at the marina, not one Chines official or sailor offered her Korean Captain any help. The remains of her masts and sails were in the sea still tied to MARIA and the wharf.
Brian helped with the mast and sail recovery. No one from the other crews (Beneteaus) offered a helping hand. Most unusual as sailors usually assist each other.
CHINA 3
On the surface all is free and easy, but little things show us reality.
Information freedom is not allowed. We were unable to access Facebook or our blog site (hence the big lot all at once)
People are not encouraged to freely visit us. All need a special Immigration pass!!!!!!
And we have been handed along a chain of people..with dumplings always on the menu. These dumplings are what we call wontons...but instead of being fried they are boiled in plain unsalted water...and the highlight of the meal is to drink the dumpling water.
QINGDAO (pronounced Chingdo)was the Sailing centre city for the 2008 Bejing Olympics and for this city the freedom genie that has been released will not be easily recaptured.
90% of the tourist attractions relate to the Olympics, supermarkets are almost like shopping at home, western style bakeries are everywhere. Shopping malls are full of expensive stores (Tiffanys, Cartier, Gucchi...you name atop expensive store and it is here. And not just in one mall. We have been infour malls and the customers are spending, not just looking.
The roads are clogged with cars...modern and expensive...BMW. Mercedes,Audi, Range Rover, Porche...etc. Talking of traffic it is amazing. Not much speeding, the rules are....there are no rules!!!!!!!! People usually drive on the correct side, they side fromlane to lane with a gentle toot. It is amazing to watch a major intersection.(6 roads) gridlock work its self out with the minimum amount of horn noise.
Information freedom is not allowed. We were unable to access Facebook or our blog site (hence the big lot all at once)
People are not encouraged to freely visit us. All need a special Immigration pass!!!!!!
And we have been handed along a chain of people..with dumplings always on the menu. These dumplings are what we call wontons...but instead of being fried they are boiled in plain unsalted water...and the highlight of the meal is to drink the dumpling water.
QINGDAO (pronounced Chingdo)was the Sailing centre city for the 2008 Bejing Olympics and for this city the freedom genie that has been released will not be easily recaptured.
90% of the tourist attractions relate to the Olympics, supermarkets are almost like shopping at home, western style bakeries are everywhere. Shopping malls are full of expensive stores (Tiffanys, Cartier, Gucchi...you name atop expensive store and it is here. And not just in one mall. We have been infour malls and the customers are spending, not just looking.
The roads are clogged with cars...modern and expensive...BMW. Mercedes,Audi, Range Rover, Porche...etc. Talking of traffic it is amazing. Not much speeding, the rules are....there are no rules!!!!!!!! People usually drive on the correct side, they side fromlane to lane with a gentle toot. It is amazing to watch a major intersection.(6 roads) gridlock work its self out with the minimum amount of horn noise.
CHINA 2
FOOTNOTE
As we were celebrating with our 'crew' one of the 'media' guys showed us his Police Badge.
We had assumed we would have a 'minder'and we had privately surmised which one it was and we were right. Most of the government officials we have met have been suspicious of us. But the ordinary people we have met are friendly and welcoming, and eager to practice their English. Each night we are taken out for dinner and last night we were also treated to a foot/leg massage.
But we still have to climb the marina fence.........
As we were celebrating with our 'crew' one of the 'media' guys showed us his Police Badge.
We had assumed we would have a 'minder'and we had privately surmised which one it was and we were right. Most of the government officials we have met have been suspicious of us. But the ordinary people we have met are friendly and welcoming, and eager to practice their English. Each night we are taken out for dinner and last night we were also treated to a foot/leg massage.
But we still have to climb the marina fence.........
CRUISING IN CHINA
After recieving our official invitation to join the Qingdao to Dalien China we race, we arranged our Chinese visa and set sail for China.
With our yellow Q flag flying we arrived at the Olympic Harbour Marina Qingdao. Tying to an outside pier we waited for entry officials. After several hours we were able to borrow a hand phone and contacted our host who called Customs, Immigration etc.
AND THEN THE FUN STARTED:
Quarantine insited we exit to outside the harbour where we rolled around waiting for their delayed arrival, three quarters of an hour later.
Quarantien Official" hullo, you ok, no fever?"
Us: "no we are well"
Q.O: "Ok take down yellow flag and come to marina"
So we returned to the marina.
Our host collected our exit port information and we now hads an 'agent'...Surprise.
Customs and Immigration officials came onboard. Brian had to intial approximately 40 (forty) pages of pre-prepared forms....we understood normal cost is Yuan 4000 for this but ours was free.
We were not allowed on land until all our paper work was cleared and so after eight hours we were officially allowed to step onto Chinese soil.
THE RACE
The following day we went to Yacht Race registration only tobe told by an official that "no were not allowed to be in the race"
"ok" we said.
"but if we took Media crew with us we could follow the race" the officials said
By now we had two new Chinese 'friends'...Nathan and Xiao....who were our designated crew for our 'non' race. The race is made up of two classes..ten Beneteau 40ft yachts and ten open class keel yachts over 36ft. The Beneteaus are Hong Kong registered, there fore foreign yachts and were crewed by 'foreigners'......(definition is as follows..they either live or work in China/are married to chinese/or are born overseas chinese). The open class yachts belong to the same catergory of people as the Beneteau crew.
There were only two genuine International Yachts here but we may as well been invisible. The organiserstotally ignored us, left us out from joining the skippers meetings and gave us no sailing or weather information.
One hour before departure two 'Media" guys arrived. Sunnhy and Mr.Lee. At our departure time (1700hrs and two hours after the Beneteaus) we were visited by a group of officials, we were handed a seal envelope to be handedto officials in Dalien, plus shore passes....(remember we are not leaving China) and Custom clearance. And we have to LEAVE NOW!!!!!!!!!!!
So we set sail and exit the harbour into squalls of rain and rolling seas....hooray we say to each other (yeah right) oh no say our crew...(Ever seen a Chinese go green just before throwing up??????? it is an interesting skin colour)
So hear we were sailing to the race start we were nopt in, with four crew who by now..one is on his hands and knees vomiting in a bucket and the other three are dosed up to the eyeballs on seasick tablets and all in a 'coma' and deterioarating weather to 35 knots on the nose, confused seas, thunder, lightning and heavy rain.
With all the crew safely stowed, Brian and I resumed our three hour on three hour off night passage routine. With the engine running we plough through the night sending heartfelt thanks to who ever desisgned radar.
MNorning dawns and he crew surface briefly.....cigarette, toilet,cigarette, throwup, drink water, cigarette, throwup...the only English speaking one, Nathan, tells us they are okay and we musy keep going because our 'media' crew must be in Dalien to film the start of the race proper. So we continue to punch on towards Dalien.
Monday passes and by Tuesday morning the weather has cleared somewhat. Unable to see the sky through the pollution smog but the wind has abated and the seas have flattened. This effect on the crew is amazing. No longer are they tinged green, Carol makes pizza which is consumed with gusto.
All are busy with their mobile phones and then at 1400hours Nathan tells us that the organisers (who couldn't organise a beer drinking contest in a brewery!!!!!!) have said we must return to Qingdao. "Why" we ask we have only 80miles to go" We are told there are no officials there for us !!!!! so we turn Charioteer around and head back to Qingdao.
We now have a tail wind but the seas pick up a little and once again we have green tinged crew. Once in the afternoon and again late at night two Chinese dibleberately tried to RAM US.... our crew are upset about this and very concerned about lack of face. And suddenly we have four crew who can UNDERSTAND AND SPEAK English, busily apoligising and tryin g to explain it is 'an accidient' even as they are standing gripping the stays and yelling in Chinese to the fishing boats to 'go away please....( or perhaps telling them to F******K OFF NOW!!!!!!!!)
We learnt later that one of the Beneteaus was caught in a trawler net and winched up to the stern of the trawler. Of the 9 other 'internationally' crewed Beneteaus the only two that stopped to help were the boats with either NZ Chinese/Australian Chinese onboard. Until we arrived back in Qingdao Brian and I were on 'high alert'.
Once we returned to the marina the FUN CONTINUED....
Our first morning visitor was an excited Border Policeman who had not been kept in the loop. Then came someone else to collect all the papers etc given to us when we left and finally we recieved the all clear to land againfrom Immigration. The Beneteaus started arriving back...people were curious as why we had turned back. Word was out from the organisers that we had 'problems' ...we guessed that is called 'saving face'
The eight day "International "event ended with us joining inthe Finishing Parade and everyone was given strict instructions to 'be happy for the cameras'
WE wouldn't have missed this for all the 'tea in China' we just hope access to land can be made easier for us. Fence climbing is not a sport Carol enjoys!!!!!!!!!
FOOTNOTE
As we were celebrating with our crew
With our yellow Q flag flying we arrived at the Olympic Harbour Marina Qingdao. Tying to an outside pier we waited for entry officials. After several hours we were able to borrow a hand phone and contacted our host who called Customs, Immigration etc.
AND THEN THE FUN STARTED:
Quarantine insited we exit to outside the harbour where we rolled around waiting for their delayed arrival, three quarters of an hour later.
Quarantien Official" hullo, you ok, no fever?"
Us: "no we are well"
Q.O: "Ok take down yellow flag and come to marina"
So we returned to the marina.
Our host collected our exit port information and we now hads an 'agent'...Surprise.
Customs and Immigration officials came onboard. Brian had to intial approximately 40 (forty) pages of pre-prepared forms....we understood normal cost is Yuan 4000 for this but ours was free.
We were not allowed on land until all our paper work was cleared and so after eight hours we were officially allowed to step onto Chinese soil.
THE RACE
The following day we went to Yacht Race registration only tobe told by an official that "no were not allowed to be in the race"
"ok" we said.
"but if we took Media crew with us we could follow the race" the officials said
By now we had two new Chinese 'friends'...Nathan and Xiao....who were our designated crew for our 'non' race. The race is made up of two classes..ten Beneteau 40ft yachts and ten open class keel yachts over 36ft. The Beneteaus are Hong Kong registered, there fore foreign yachts and were crewed by 'foreigners'......(definition is as follows..they either live or work in China/are married to chinese/or are born overseas chinese). The open class yachts belong to the same catergory of people as the Beneteau crew.
There were only two genuine International Yachts here but we may as well been invisible. The organiserstotally ignored us, left us out from joining the skippers meetings and gave us no sailing or weather information.
One hour before departure two 'Media" guys arrived. Sunnhy and Mr.Lee. At our departure time (1700hrs and two hours after the Beneteaus) we were visited by a group of officials, we were handed a seal envelope to be handedto officials in Dalien, plus shore passes....(remember we are not leaving China) and Custom clearance. And we have to LEAVE NOW!!!!!!!!!!!
So we set sail and exit the harbour into squalls of rain and rolling seas....hooray we say to each other (yeah right) oh no say our crew...(Ever seen a Chinese go green just before throwing up??????? it is an interesting skin colour)
So hear we were sailing to the race start we were nopt in, with four crew who by now..one is on his hands and knees vomiting in a bucket and the other three are dosed up to the eyeballs on seasick tablets and all in a 'coma' and deterioarating weather to 35 knots on the nose, confused seas, thunder, lightning and heavy rain.
With all the crew safely stowed, Brian and I resumed our three hour on three hour off night passage routine. With the engine running we plough through the night sending heartfelt thanks to who ever desisgned radar.
MNorning dawns and he crew surface briefly.....cigarette, toilet,cigarette, throwup, drink water, cigarette, throwup...the only English speaking one, Nathan, tells us they are okay and we musy keep going because our 'media' crew must be in Dalien to film the start of the race proper. So we continue to punch on towards Dalien.
Monday passes and by Tuesday morning the weather has cleared somewhat. Unable to see the sky through the pollution smog but the wind has abated and the seas have flattened. This effect on the crew is amazing. No longer are they tinged green, Carol makes pizza which is consumed with gusto.
All are busy with their mobile phones and then at 1400hours Nathan tells us that the organisers (who couldn't organise a beer drinking contest in a brewery!!!!!!) have said we must return to Qingdao. "Why" we ask we have only 80miles to go" We are told there are no officials there for us !!!!! so we turn Charioteer around and head back to Qingdao.
We now have a tail wind but the seas pick up a little and once again we have green tinged crew. Once in the afternoon and again late at night two Chinese dibleberately tried to RAM US.... our crew are upset about this and very concerned about lack of face. And suddenly we have four crew who can UNDERSTAND AND SPEAK English, busily apoligising and tryin g to explain it is 'an accidient' even as they are standing gripping the stays and yelling in Chinese to the fishing boats to 'go away please....( or perhaps telling them to F******K OFF NOW!!!!!!!!)
We learnt later that one of the Beneteaus was caught in a trawler net and winched up to the stern of the trawler. Of the 9 other 'internationally' crewed Beneteaus the only two that stopped to help were the boats with either NZ Chinese/Australian Chinese onboard. Until we arrived back in Qingdao Brian and I were on 'high alert'.
Once we returned to the marina the FUN CONTINUED....
Our first morning visitor was an excited Border Policeman who had not been kept in the loop. Then came someone else to collect all the papers etc given to us when we left and finally we recieved the all clear to land againfrom Immigration. The Beneteaus started arriving back...people were curious as why we had turned back. Word was out from the organisers that we had 'problems' ...we guessed that is called 'saving face'
The eight day "International "event ended with us joining inthe Finishing Parade and everyone was given strict instructions to 'be happy for the cameras'
WE wouldn't have missed this for all the 'tea in China' we just hope access to land can be made easier for us. Fence climbing is not a sport Carol enjoys!!!!!!!!!
FOOTNOTE
As we were celebrating with our crew
Monday, September 20, 2010
Thursday, August 5, 2010
CHINA
Yes thats right.....
we have on official invitation to Qingdao International Sailing Week and we are not foolish enough to pass this up.
So today we applied for a visa and on the 10th we collect a month visa.
Cruising life is such that if you are wise plans are not set in concrete...
Never thought we would be sailing in China...
Once the laptop is repaired we should be able to put mores photographs up for viewing....
Weather here is Korea is STICKY and HOT.....
we have on official invitation to Qingdao International Sailing Week and we are not foolish enough to pass this up.
So today we applied for a visa and on the 10th we collect a month visa.
Cruising life is such that if you are wise plans are not set in concrete...
Never thought we would be sailing in China...
Once the laptop is repaired we should be able to put mores photographs up for viewing....
Weather here is Korea is STICKY and HOT.....
Monday, July 26, 2010
HISTORY
In 2002 we ventured from New Zealand to the South Pacific in Pewter,and travelled approximately 4890 miles.
In 2004 we again ventured to the South pacific and travelled 6990 miles
Then we sold Pewter and bought Charioteer and since then we have travelled approx 14606 miles.......and we are still sailing.....The next destination has yet to be decided...China or back to Japan...decisions, decisions.........
In all the miles we have travelled we have been very fortunate......we have only 'nudged' a couple of reefs...(and both times Brian was on the wheel!!!!)
we have laid on our side in Australia waiting for the tide to come back in,we nearly lost the skeg from Charioteer, we broke a shackle and our code zero sail took a short swimming lesson, the main sail drive motor broke,as did the alternator, the GPS, the laptops...and of course we 'broke' a marina in Korea...
But otherwise we think we have done pretty well
We are still here in Mokp and thoroughly enjoying ourselves.....on Friday we are taking part in a parade on water for the Mokpo Marine Festival....should be fun.
Onbce the computer is up and running again we should be able to show photos......
In 2004 we again ventured to the South pacific and travelled 6990 miles
Then we sold Pewter and bought Charioteer and since then we have travelled approx 14606 miles.......and we are still sailing.....The next destination has yet to be decided...China or back to Japan...decisions, decisions.........
In all the miles we have travelled we have been very fortunate......we have only 'nudged' a couple of reefs...(and both times Brian was on the wheel!!!!)
we have laid on our side in Australia waiting for the tide to come back in,we nearly lost the skeg from Charioteer, we broke a shackle and our code zero sail took a short swimming lesson, the main sail drive motor broke,as did the alternator, the GPS, the laptops...and of course we 'broke' a marina in Korea...
But otherwise we think we have done pretty well
We are still here in Mokp and thoroughly enjoying ourselves.....on Friday we are taking part in a parade on water for the Mokpo Marine Festival....should be fun.
Onbce the computer is up and running again we should be able to show photos......
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Korea.....catching up 2
Heading out to sea the next day suddenly became full of drama as the fog came. Somehow by following our chart plotter track we got into open sea but fog everywhere restricted visibility to about 20 meters.
WE actually heard two ships collide...the lead up took place on the VHF radio something like this......
Ship A....ship on my starboard bow why have you steered to starboard...go to port NOW!!!!!!!!!
Ship B....I changed course to avoid a fishing boat.....
Ship A ...@@@###*******@@@###### the fishing boat...GO TO PORT NOW
The next exchange was metal to metal.
And this explained the barely contained hysteria we heard on the VHF over the next few fog filled days.
Along this coast is a mass of island. Mostly rugged but some we could off load our bikes for a good look around. Others we just anchor off for the night.
Eventually we made MOKPO which is where we still are.
A good marina, we are getting help with the fixing of both our broken laptops, and the chance to stock up on food which is probably cheaper than in New Zealand, certainly cheaper than Japan.
Tides are still 3 to 4 meters but nothing like up north with its 7 meter range.
So now we are looking again at where next. WE managed to extend our visa by 30 days....where our next report comes fromwe do not know other than it will not be Afghanistan or North Korea....do they have inter net at Farallon De Pajaros Island?????
WE actually heard two ships collide...the lead up took place on the VHF radio something like this......
Ship A....ship on my starboard bow why have you steered to starboard...go to port NOW!!!!!!!!!
Ship B....I changed course to avoid a fishing boat.....
Ship A ...@@@###*******@@@###### the fishing boat...GO TO PORT NOW
The next exchange was metal to metal.
And this explained the barely contained hysteria we heard on the VHF over the next few fog filled days.
Along this coast is a mass of island. Mostly rugged but some we could off load our bikes for a good look around. Others we just anchor off for the night.
Eventually we made MOKPO which is where we still are.
A good marina, we are getting help with the fixing of both our broken laptops, and the chance to stock up on food which is probably cheaper than in New Zealand, certainly cheaper than Japan.
Tides are still 3 to 4 meters but nothing like up north with its 7 meter range.
So now we are looking again at where next. WE managed to extend our visa by 30 days....where our next report comes fromwe do not know other than it will not be Afghanistan or North Korea....do they have inter net at Farallon De Pajaros Island?????
Korea.......catching up
First thing to our continuing tale of travel is .....yes we are still alive..
Its been a while since Pohang in April. Our mission was to go from Pohang on the east Coast to Tando Port near Incheon on the west coast. Not far really as the crow flies but we thought taking Charioteer around the coast would be easier. (She seems to prefer travelling in the water !!!!)
On the way we visited our friends at Power Marine again, then ventured on mostly island to island. There are thousands of islands around the south west coast.
South Korea has so many many police and craft...from ocean going armed ships , hovercraft and samall day boats, we were seldom without an escort."For your saftey" they say.......
On one day of misty rain, they 'lost' us, but a day or two later in comes a helicopter and it does a couple of circles and then flys off. A few hours later in comes an approaching police boat....with a man in front vigorously waving a flag...'where are you going etc etc'
Told of our intention to anchor and where, their reply is "one moment please" then they come back with..."follow us, we know a better place"
Off they went at ten knots, off we went at five knots. We rounded an island and there they were waiting. Fenders out and roped along side we spent an hour on their ship...coffee, cake...english practice then time for them to go.
They quickly attached our ship to the mooring and off they went.
Normally we prefer to anchor but we remained on the mooring. Somehow an extra rope on this mooring found itself well wrapped around the prop. Next morning at 6am Brian is in the dinghy off to a nearby fishing boat. Sign language to explain our problem and they eventually understood and called coastguard on their cell phone for us.
A ship was dispatched and on arrival quickly proceeded to take us in tow whilst we were still attached to the mooring. After much shouting and waving that brought to a stop so we could cut the mooring line.
Okay we are now off, towed at nine to ten knots, with our dingy being towed behind us.Seven miles later we are in a bay being attached to another buoy, with a small KCG craft standing by with a diver onboard.
Soon pieces of rope were drifting away. Once the diver had done this we needed him to carefully check the prop to make sure it was okay as it is a folding type.All was okay...hooray.
Caryying on we had little wind so relied on the current to make progress. The reason we were going to Tando Port was to view a national boatshow.
Fish farms in Korea are like nowhere else we have encountered in our travels. Spying a blue police boat we headed in its direction and they obliged us by leading us through the maze into port.
The boat show was huge, but different to what we are used to. Hundreds of food stalls and thousands of people.
Racing was also taking place here for the World Match Race circuit...so there were plenty of Kiwi sailors here.
We have spoken of the generosity of the Japanese people and this can be said of Koreans as well.
A korean we had met in the Philippines, drove for an hour from his city to collect us. He showed us around Suwon and its tourist sights including the castle with its 5.6km fortified wall. That evening we had dinner with several of his friends before being delivered to a very upmarket hotel.
Oh my god, do we have enough money???????.....but oh no our friend has paid for this himself.
Next day he took us to a world heritage site we where learnt about ancient living conditions and customs. One building that was run by two elderly twins in which they forged traditional eating spoons, a process of heating and shaping eight times to the finished product.,On seeing the price of these we shied away, only to see our host purchase a set as gifts for us. We dare not look at any thing else after that.
Near the exit was a photo studio with a variety of tradional and very colourful dress wear. We were outfited as nobles and had our photo taken. Again not cheap and also once again our host paid before we had the chance.
Another meal with our friends and this time we bedded down at our expense...budget love hotel.
The next day we were driven back to Charioteer.
Its been a while since Pohang in April. Our mission was to go from Pohang on the east Coast to Tando Port near Incheon on the west coast. Not far really as the crow flies but we thought taking Charioteer around the coast would be easier. (She seems to prefer travelling in the water !!!!)
On the way we visited our friends at Power Marine again, then ventured on mostly island to island. There are thousands of islands around the south west coast.
South Korea has so many many police and craft...from ocean going armed ships , hovercraft and samall day boats, we were seldom without an escort."For your saftey" they say.......
On one day of misty rain, they 'lost' us, but a day or two later in comes a helicopter and it does a couple of circles and then flys off. A few hours later in comes an approaching police boat....with a man in front vigorously waving a flag...'where are you going etc etc'
Told of our intention to anchor and where, their reply is "one moment please" then they come back with..."follow us, we know a better place"
Off they went at ten knots, off we went at five knots. We rounded an island and there they were waiting. Fenders out and roped along side we spent an hour on their ship...coffee, cake...english practice then time for them to go.
They quickly attached our ship to the mooring and off they went.
Normally we prefer to anchor but we remained on the mooring. Somehow an extra rope on this mooring found itself well wrapped around the prop. Next morning at 6am Brian is in the dinghy off to a nearby fishing boat. Sign language to explain our problem and they eventually understood and called coastguard on their cell phone for us.
A ship was dispatched and on arrival quickly proceeded to take us in tow whilst we were still attached to the mooring. After much shouting and waving that brought to a stop so we could cut the mooring line.
Okay we are now off, towed at nine to ten knots, with our dingy being towed behind us.Seven miles later we are in a bay being attached to another buoy, with a small KCG craft standing by with a diver onboard.
Soon pieces of rope were drifting away. Once the diver had done this we needed him to carefully check the prop to make sure it was okay as it is a folding type.All was okay...hooray.
Caryying on we had little wind so relied on the current to make progress. The reason we were going to Tando Port was to view a national boatshow.
Fish farms in Korea are like nowhere else we have encountered in our travels. Spying a blue police boat we headed in its direction and they obliged us by leading us through the maze into port.
The boat show was huge, but different to what we are used to. Hundreds of food stalls and thousands of people.
Racing was also taking place here for the World Match Race circuit...so there were plenty of Kiwi sailors here.
We have spoken of the generosity of the Japanese people and this can be said of Koreans as well.
A korean we had met in the Philippines, drove for an hour from his city to collect us. He showed us around Suwon and its tourist sights including the castle with its 5.6km fortified wall. That evening we had dinner with several of his friends before being delivered to a very upmarket hotel.
Oh my god, do we have enough money???????.....but oh no our friend has paid for this himself.
Next day he took us to a world heritage site we where learnt about ancient living conditions and customs. One building that was run by two elderly twins in which they forged traditional eating spoons, a process of heating and shaping eight times to the finished product.,On seeing the price of these we shied away, only to see our host purchase a set as gifts for us. We dare not look at any thing else after that.
Near the exit was a photo studio with a variety of tradional and very colourful dress wear. We were outfited as nobles and had our photo taken. Again not cheap and also once again our host paid before we had the chance.
Another meal with our friends and this time we bedded down at our expense...budget love hotel.
The next day we were driven back to Charioteer.
Thursday, July 8, 2010
STILL IN KOREA
HI THERE ONE AND ALL,
We are now in the south west corner at a city called Mokpo......the heat is incredible...and its very muggy.....the navigation programme on the main computer decided to stop working and the back up computer decided that this was a good time to start turning its self off for no apparent reason.
We have been incredibly lucky and with the help of Korean Coastguard / Marine Police we have had a technician working on computer number one....nav programme working again, and computer number two is in the workshop getting a good telling off.
To keep busy while we are tied up to this lovely marina Brian is rebuilding the box that holds the navigation instruments...(wind speed, depth etc) and me...well I'm just enjoying myself.
We have had a lovely time here in Korea..the Marine National Parks are just beautiful. The only drawback would be the unmarked fishing nets, but we have been very careful and so far have only needed one diver and one tow....whats that you say???? Ha well that is another story and will tell you all about this next time.
We are well and hope all you people are well and happy.
We are now in the south west corner at a city called Mokpo......the heat is incredible...and its very muggy.....the navigation programme on the main computer decided to stop working and the back up computer decided that this was a good time to start turning its self off for no apparent reason.
We have been incredibly lucky and with the help of Korean Coastguard / Marine Police we have had a technician working on computer number one....nav programme working again, and computer number two is in the workshop getting a good telling off.
To keep busy while we are tied up to this lovely marina Brian is rebuilding the box that holds the navigation instruments...(wind speed, depth etc) and me...well I'm just enjoying myself.
We have had a lovely time here in Korea..the Marine National Parks are just beautiful. The only drawback would be the unmarked fishing nets, but we have been very careful and so far have only needed one diver and one tow....whats that you say???? Ha well that is another story and will tell you all about this next time.
We are well and hope all you people are well and happy.
Thursday, May 13, 2010
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KOREA 2010
PO HANG CITY
is several miles inside a deep bay so we reduced sail so as to enter in daylight. By 9am we headed for Coastguard office and after a couple of mis directions tied up at the right place, (or so we thought). Yachts don't enter here usually, so there was much confusion with authorities. Quarantine was quick and easy, immigration took 30 minutes, customs had no idea what to do, but with our explaining how our first entry went, we got it sorted. Then two Custom officiers took us to lunch.!!!!!!!!
Where to park Charioteer had them all thinking, (especially as their directions had already RUN US AGROUND)...finally we were placed between a huge police ship and an equally large catamaran ferry. Only downside were the many fishing boats making quite a wash.
We stayed two weeks at PO HANG which is quite a large vibrant city. Also here is POSCO the 2nd biggest steel plant in the world. You can drive along the road beside POSCO for 11 km..... it is huge. It was too involved for us to organise a visit...the words..industrial spy, 007 were mentioned so we gave up.
Night time is magical as all the chimmneys, conveyors and high structure are alight with multilevel colour, often changing lights.
One afternoon we cycled back to Charioteer where a large black car was parked. A couple of men were looking at our boat so, as usual, we invited them to a visit.
Their English was poor but we understood they would like to take us for a tour. Well okay of course. This lead to a walk around the huge market and then on a drive into the industrial area. (Just incidently the car had a driver.) This fact should of been a clue. Anyway we entered a factory gate where the guard saluted us...this factory handles steel making bridge components and ship building forms. The steel beams and plate are in 22m lengths. Huge buildings for profile cutting, automatic welding, shot blasting and painting. It is so big that huge tractor trailer units are in and out of the plant four (400) hundred times a day...that every 1.2 minutes average.One of these two guys was the owner!!!!!!!
Later we were taken to a restaurant where about 20 from the same college were having a reunion.After a splendid meal we were returned to Charioteer.
Several years ago in Singapore we met a Korean family and had kept in touch and now we were getting together again. Sang Dae was in the Embassy ,but is now back in the navy and in a rather high position. Again we were off in a chauffeur driven car, this time with a navy trained driver. The restaurant was the usual low table where you sit cross legged on the floor. This restaurant had charcoal burners set in the table centre and dirctly overhead a flexible copper snout hung down from the ceilimng. This is a vacumn to take away the smoke. There are all manner of dishes but here the main was a huge plate of pork. This is as much fat as therreis meat which has been marinated. Now I (Brian) don't usually eat the smallest amiount of fat but this was delicious ...I gorged......A populkar way of eating was with a special lettuce leaf which you hold in your left hand whilst loading on morsals from various dishes. Curl the edges over and pop the whole lot at once in your mounth...(hope like hell no one asks you a question in the next minute or so) That was on a Friday.
On the Sunday we were again picked up and taken to Gyeongsangbuk-Do, to view the historic Sila City. This part of Koreas history dates back to the 6th century. They were incredible engineers and craftsmen. Their achievements are probably under rated in world history. Well of course we had to complete the day with a great evening meal. It is almost impossible to pay as you are there guest.
Back to the wharf where we are berthed....here is a huge sand storage. Ships unload sand and this is placed in a heap about 10m high, trucks in and out loading up for concrete making. We got friendly with the loader driver who took us home one evening. Here we met his wife who sews by hand the tradtional Korean dress...Hanbok... and a lovely meal of Korean Spaghetti.
Naturally the dinner was not enough so now we have some momentos of her work. Saturday afternoon he drove us up a small mountain where there is a very very old budhist temple.
The night before we left he arrived with a cake, candles, coca cola. On lighting the candles he sung a Korean farewell song. Now here is a twist...the Korean cake was adorned with kiwi fruit, orange wedges and what we thought were large grapes.....but no.....they were small tomatoes !!!!!!!!!!!! now thats different...tomatoes and cream!!!!!!!
Earlier our steel plant owner and five friends had descended on us also that evening
On that same afternoon another man spoke with us. He was once a seaman and had been to NZ. He is now on a research vessel and we accepted his invitation to a tour. We joined a group of scientists having dinner. Choosing with care as we know some dishes are FIERY HOT we did well until I (Brian) tried the soup. Well I swear the top flew off my head, fumes exited my nose and Carol said I went so red that with that and my white whiskers I could of replaced Santa and his reindeer. Great mirth from the onlookers.
The cook must of noticed because he especially made a huge bland pancake for us....it only contained green chillis.....real bland....not !!!!!!!!
In between all this we took an intercity bus to Deagu, Koreas second biggest city where we spent several hours browsing thru the multistory market of 4000 shops.
Then it was onto another bus and off to Haeinsa Gaya. Haeinsa is home to the Tripitaka Korena, a complete composition of Budhist scriptures carved onto 81258 wooden printing blocks. This monastery is not for display only. It is a living working thriving centre with more than 500 monks in residence. Well worth the bus journey.
is several miles inside a deep bay so we reduced sail so as to enter in daylight. By 9am we headed for Coastguard office and after a couple of mis directions tied up at the right place, (or so we thought). Yachts don't enter here usually, so there was much confusion with authorities. Quarantine was quick and easy, immigration took 30 minutes, customs had no idea what to do, but with our explaining how our first entry went, we got it sorted. Then two Custom officiers took us to lunch.!!!!!!!!
Where to park Charioteer had them all thinking, (especially as their directions had already RUN US AGROUND)...finally we were placed between a huge police ship and an equally large catamaran ferry. Only downside were the many fishing boats making quite a wash.
We stayed two weeks at PO HANG which is quite a large vibrant city. Also here is POSCO the 2nd biggest steel plant in the world. You can drive along the road beside POSCO for 11 km..... it is huge. It was too involved for us to organise a visit...the words..industrial spy, 007 were mentioned so we gave up.
Night time is magical as all the chimmneys, conveyors and high structure are alight with multilevel colour, often changing lights.
One afternoon we cycled back to Charioteer where a large black car was parked. A couple of men were looking at our boat so, as usual, we invited them to a visit.
Their English was poor but we understood they would like to take us for a tour. Well okay of course. This lead to a walk around the huge market and then on a drive into the industrial area. (Just incidently the car had a driver.) This fact should of been a clue. Anyway we entered a factory gate where the guard saluted us...this factory handles steel making bridge components and ship building forms. The steel beams and plate are in 22m lengths. Huge buildings for profile cutting, automatic welding, shot blasting and painting. It is so big that huge tractor trailer units are in and out of the plant four (400) hundred times a day...that every 1.2 minutes average.One of these two guys was the owner!!!!!!!
Later we were taken to a restaurant where about 20 from the same college were having a reunion.After a splendid meal we were returned to Charioteer.
Several years ago in Singapore we met a Korean family and had kept in touch and now we were getting together again. Sang Dae was in the Embassy ,but is now back in the navy and in a rather high position. Again we were off in a chauffeur driven car, this time with a navy trained driver. The restaurant was the usual low table where you sit cross legged on the floor. This restaurant had charcoal burners set in the table centre and dirctly overhead a flexible copper snout hung down from the ceilimng. This is a vacumn to take away the smoke. There are all manner of dishes but here the main was a huge plate of pork. This is as much fat as therreis meat which has been marinated. Now I (Brian) don't usually eat the smallest amiount of fat but this was delicious ...I gorged......A populkar way of eating was with a special lettuce leaf which you hold in your left hand whilst loading on morsals from various dishes. Curl the edges over and pop the whole lot at once in your mounth...(hope like hell no one asks you a question in the next minute or so) That was on a Friday.
On the Sunday we were again picked up and taken to Gyeongsangbuk-Do, to view the historic Sila City. This part of Koreas history dates back to the 6th century. They were incredible engineers and craftsmen. Their achievements are probably under rated in world history. Well of course we had to complete the day with a great evening meal. It is almost impossible to pay as you are there guest.
Back to the wharf where we are berthed....here is a huge sand storage. Ships unload sand and this is placed in a heap about 10m high, trucks in and out loading up for concrete making. We got friendly with the loader driver who took us home one evening. Here we met his wife who sews by hand the tradtional Korean dress...Hanbok... and a lovely meal of Korean Spaghetti.
Naturally the dinner was not enough so now we have some momentos of her work. Saturday afternoon he drove us up a small mountain where there is a very very old budhist temple.
The night before we left he arrived with a cake, candles, coca cola. On lighting the candles he sung a Korean farewell song. Now here is a twist...the Korean cake was adorned with kiwi fruit, orange wedges and what we thought were large grapes.....but no.....they were small tomatoes !!!!!!!!!!!! now thats different...tomatoes and cream!!!!!!!
Earlier our steel plant owner and five friends had descended on us also that evening
On that same afternoon another man spoke with us. He was once a seaman and had been to NZ. He is now on a research vessel and we accepted his invitation to a tour. We joined a group of scientists having dinner. Choosing with care as we know some dishes are FIERY HOT we did well until I (Brian) tried the soup. Well I swear the top flew off my head, fumes exited my nose and Carol said I went so red that with that and my white whiskers I could of replaced Santa and his reindeer. Great mirth from the onlookers.
The cook must of noticed because he especially made a huge bland pancake for us....it only contained green chillis.....real bland....not !!!!!!!!
In between all this we took an intercity bus to Deagu, Koreas second biggest city where we spent several hours browsing thru the multistory market of 4000 shops.
Then it was onto another bus and off to Haeinsa Gaya. Haeinsa is home to the Tripitaka Korena, a complete composition of Budhist scriptures carved onto 81258 wooden printing blocks. This monastery is not for display only. It is a living working thriving centre with more than 500 monks in residence. Well worth the bus journey.
Japan Again 7
Sakaiminato was our last port in Japan. Here we had the best and worst of experiences. Best was from the 3rd service station we tried to organise duty free fuel from. The lady owner went to great efforts for us with
Customs to organise it all. Result was we got 600 litres at a saving of 30yen per litre. She and her husband later treated us to a meal at their home and an overnight stay. The other side of the coin was an encounter with a policewomen. We think she must have thought we were illegal the way she chased us demanding to see our alien cards and passport. passports were on the boat so off we went to get them with a police excort. She had arrange TOP BRASS to come to the boat as well. Of course everything was in order but all in all not a pleasent experience.
We left Japan on a Saturday but winds were not favourable so it was midnite Sunday before we made contact with Korea.
Monday, April 12, 2010
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