Korean Cruising Adventure September 2010

On Sunday we were invited onto a Korean yacht for a day sail. Almost no wind and good visibility. Five Koreans crowded in the cockpit, Carol and Brian on the fordeck.
Aware of a fast approaching large fishing boat dead ahead, we called to the helmsman to alert him of this danger, but he didn't hear us. With the fishing boat fast approaching Brians yelling became VERY loud.
50 metres away one of the drowsy fishing boat crew members lifted his head up in response to the yelling. At last the fishing boat skipper heard something but too late.
Luckily the impact was down the side taking out the yachts staunchions...with one hell of a loud bang!!!!!!! He must of been travelling at between 10 and 15 knots.
Had the impact been head on the damage and injuries would of been major.
What really annoys us is the Korean Coastguard/Police make such an issue about yachties (local and visiting) doing everything by the book. Yet fishing boats seem to break every law with impunity.
Japan has the same problem with their fishermen being a strong union politically.

MARIA

We had intended staying longer in China, but having assisted MARIA back to her home por meant going 200 miles further norh that n we had intended. MARIA's owner told us we would be reimbursed for fuel used and as Captain Cho wanted to leave on theFriday despite the wind on the nose forcast. So over three days and two nights we motorsailed for 51 hours.
Upon arrival we discovered that Captain Cho is 'famous in Korea' (www.udtseal.or.kr).
To us the Captain was just plain Mr.Cho an old guy who had lost his mast and needed help. Back at MARIA's homeport we were greeted like heros ourselves.
Because we are up in this area we have now been able to visit the DMZ, been whitewater rafting, visited temple sights, theme parks museums and got naked in a public huge hotelspa sauna .
We are now tied to a huge barge. It has been madeover into accommodation etc, almost like a house boat. Here we are able to relax and unwind. The sky is blue, the air is clean, life is good.
On the 29th we start siling southward to Tong young....believing we are entered in a race there...(better luck this time)

STILL IN CHINA

Our time spent in Qingdao has felt a bit like being in 'Wonderland'
WE were unable to travel much further than 30k outside of Qingdao. What we saw was dirty rundown towns with narrow ugly streets, people doing laundry in buckets.
The contrast with Qingdoa is like comparing chalk with cheese....did we perhaps get a glimpse of the real China?????

Qingdao is a city that was constructed especially for the Olympics to be used for the sailing activities. The shops are great...but DO NOT DRINK THE WATER.......

China appears free but everyone must register with the police within 24hrs of arriving anywhere...(foreigner and chinese alike). If staying in an hotel this is done for you and you do not know you are being 'tracked'

We think we always had a minder and we were passed along a chain.

So we have yet to visit China but we have been to Qingdao.
Not sure if we enjoyed ourselves here or not...when one is used to freedom this was an unusual experience.

Visibility was always restricted because of the smog/pollution but we hope you enjoy the photos we shall post later.

CHINA ....NOW AND THEN

Talking with a family who were here during the GREAT LEAP FORWARD and the CULTURAL REVOLUTION has been interesting

The family lived in the shadow of the church. The grandfather and father were preachers and the mother was a doctor. The daughter was eight years old and can remember the flames as the Red Guard burnt their possessions...books, clothes and furniture that had the slightest western tinge, and other unburnable things were broken.
The grandmothers feet were bound inblack cloths and she used spare feet bindings to wrap a bible in and hid it in a dark place. For ten years it was the only bible the congregation had to read.
For this family, advice given to them from survivors of those terrible times is......
do not be proud, let people see you sharing your wealth how ever little you have, and try to be invisible just in case it happens again.

CHINA and the MARIA

MARIA

The Korean yacht Maria arrived in Qingdao the day after us. Whilst sailing one day MARIA lost her masts and while the Chinese Coastguard was helping her she sustained more damage. Once back at the marina, not one Chines official or sailor offered her Korean Captain any help. The remains of her masts and sails were in the sea still tied to MARIA and the wharf.
Brian helped with the mast and sail recovery. No one from the other crews (Beneteaus) offered a helping hand. Most unusual as sailors usually assist each other.